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Pride of Place - Anglo Saxon Kingdom's Exhibition

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It was great to meet an old Norfolk friend, in pride of place, welcoming visitors to the Anglo Saxon Kingdoms Exhibition at  the British Library!  He represents the old East Anglia. East Anglia before Christian missionaries began the conversion in the 7th C.
Made of clay, the model of Spong Hill Man forms the stopper of a cremation urn ' Looking at him in a new light, he seemed less like one of the three monkeys, perhaps somewhere between Rodin's Thinker and Edvard Munch's The Scream, as he contemplates the mysteries of life and death.  For such as him St.Felix established a church close to Spong Hill at North Elmham. A church that was to become the centre of the diocese until it transferred to Norwich in 11th C. 

Another Norfolk treasure  - the  (the newly acquired)  Whinfarthing Pendant  - was displayed nearby.


It dates from a time when the East Anglian elite was beginning to turn towards Christianity. Like St.Felix, who accompanied King Sigeberht of East Anglia from ex…

Bishop Herbert and St. Felix

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Eight years have past since I last puzzled the Elmham Question
( See https://norfolkpilgrim.blogspot.com/2010/07/south-elmham.html and the matching https://norfolkpilgrim.blogspot.com/2010/07/north-elmham.html).  Bishop Herbert built two matching churches, each with the same ground plan at both North and South Elmham.

Recently, I have been puzzling the relief sculpture of St.Felix in Norwich Cathedral. It was part of the furniture around the Bishop's Entrance in the North Transept. Both the sculpture and the architecture around the door were deliberately antiqued to look old even when they were new! This latest round of puzzling is connected with The Norfolk Saints' Way , one of  Norwich Cathedral's Green Pilgrimage projects. Along the route from Burgh Castle are two churches, at Reedham and Loddon, that were founded by St.Felix.

This very morning I was at the 8 a.m. Holy Communion service in Norwich Cathedral, kneeling beside Bishop Herbert's grave, once again ponder…

St.John of the Cross and the Broads National Park

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Yes, I know he never came here but.........    I have been revisiting the arguments of the Reformation. The echos of the bad tempered arguments are visible in -  broken 7 sacrament fonts, a few remaining pieces of medieval glass,  rood screens where the saints faces have been scratched out and empty niches once occupied by the images of saints.




And then there is Lollards' Pit

In some ways St.John of the Cross was a Reformer too and he got a lot of grief because of it!  When I think about him as a bare foot friar,  I am reminded that John Wycliffe had four such friars supporting him when he appeared before the Bishop of London.

I find it a very odd thing that the Norfolk Saints Way on its way into Norwich Cathedral has Lollards' Pit as a way station. I wander what the Lollards might have thought about 21st Century pilgrims!  In their day they were dead against it.


St.John of the Cross is more nuanced. He has this to say about pilgrimages and images :- 
he that makes a pilgrimage doe…

St.John of the Cross Pilgrtimage

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On this feast day of St.John of the Cross I remember a trip I made to walk in his footsteps!
I think I am right and that this (unlabelled)  photo is the view looking south from the site of his Los Martires Friary looking south towards the Alpujjas. Granada was the last city to be re-conquered from the Muslims. The Alpujjaras the last part of Spain ruled by Muslims!




It is a site just round the corner from Grenada's beautiful, Islamic gardens of the Alhambra and the Generalife. It seems to me that John uses  poetry to reach out to newly converted Muslims by using Song of Songs imagery  which was accessible to Christians and Muslims alike. 
In one of the last stanzas of the Song of the Soul and the Bridegroom. He gives more than a hint of the time and place of its composing  We shall go at once To the deep caverns of the rock Which are all secret, There we shall enter in And taste of the new wine of the pomegranate.   In Spanish the word Pomegranate is Grenada . 



Thank you Matthew Champion

Read this at https://medieval-graffiti.blogspot.com/
"A moment in time - when a resigned population took stock of what God had sent their way, and what the church had failed to protect them from, and carved, painted and gilded their own reactions to events in the very fabric of the church itself. A stark irreverence combined with open elements of humour and parody. Fat friars and stupid priests, lecherous monks and harlot nuns, green men and grotesque beasts - all thrust into the very body of the church. Gone is the quiet reverence, and instead flows out a stream of self expression that obliquely questions the very structure of the church and the society in which they lived." in  https://medieval-graffiti.blogspot.com/2018/11/messing-about-in-church-sublime-and.html

I think it encapsulates so much about post Black Death religion in Norfolk. I will quote it often!

Rescued from the Sea of Chaos

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This font base was recently rescued from the church of Holy Trinity, Hautbois before the redundant church was handed over to the Guides as an extra building for their Hautbois Activities Centre.


As far as I know it's providence is as follows :
It had been buried and discovered in the 19th C when the nave of , the now ruined, church of St.Mary (a.k.a. St.Theobald) was being cleared. Historic England record the font in these terms:
Early C12 font base, supporting C19 square bawl. Base carved with entwined winged serpents, divided from the foliated base section by double keel moulding.

 I imagine bawl is a typo. What they do not say, although this is true The square 19th Century bowl plunked on top of a wonderful 12th C font base, which still appears to have some of red pigment on the winged serpents, is hideous!

To my mind the lower layer of the font base is not so much foliat as waves of the sea, but perhaps I am reading too much into it. In any case, the meaning of the iconography…

Circular Path - Claxton

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Brilliant walk following the Norfolk Trails Circular Route  from the New Inn, Rockland





With a warm welcome from Claxton Church  and  The New Inn, Rockland
I recommend both if you are thirsting after righteousness!

A Pilgrim's Welcome at Phillack

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Caitlin Green's research on the Hayle Estuary ( http://www.caitlingreen.org/2018/05/phillack-and-the-hayle-estuary.html) brought me to Phillack church to see the reused 5th century Chi Rho stone built into porch of the, Victorian re-build version of, a Christian place of worship.

Many thanks to Caitlin for sharing her insights so freely! Here's my rather poor pics -




A bit faint, perhaps, but none-the-less a witness to the on-going  Christian mission to Cornwall!



















1,5000 years later this pilgrim was mightily impressed with the church's ongoing mission and the Children's Corner

"Not many children come on Sundays," a faithful Church member told me . That may be so, but a proud dad, not a church-goer by any means, spoke enthusiastically about going to  Phillack Church for various school events. 
Most especially, I liked a prayer station that opened a way into the heart of prayer


I expect I will be suggesting it as a model for seaside places in East Anglia.

Low Impact Tourism/Low Impact Pilgrimage

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In a small and crowded island rural tranquillity and the remaining wild places require protection. Protection from any developments that compromise their status and change their character.  In the Mediterranean and Canary Islands we label such developments as costa-isation but it happens elsewhere too. Arguably, it has already happened in parts of Norfolk and the Broads





















In the Ascent of Mount Carmel Book 3, Chapter 36, section 3 St.John of the Cross makes these observations. It is good to  "........withdraw ourselves from noise and from people when we pray, even as did the Lord. Wherefore he that makes a pilgrimage does well if he makes it at a time when no others are doing so, even though the time be unusual. I should never advise him to make a pilgrimage when a great multitude is doing so; for, as a rule, on these occasions, people return in a state of greater distraction than when they went. And many set out on these pilgrimages and make them for recreation rather than for devo…